Power consumption measurements explain why there are 2 power lines in, as the device uses this to measure power use across each channel. If you planning on replacing Sonoff Mini, make sure that your wall switch is compatible as Mini used 3.3V switching logic. These have to be connected to the Live wire in order to work. Unlike Sonoff Mini, switches added to Sonoff DUALR3 use mains power to connect. This should cover all switches that you use to toggle your lights. There is a pulse, edge and follow mode available to be set separately for each switch. Sonoff DualR3 and eWeLink app offer 3 switch modes for detection. It pairs in the instant and eWeLink walks you through the setup process. Pairing is done over Bluetooth instead of the traditional AP point. Sonoff DUALR3 comes with a small bracket that can be used to mount on a DIN rail or on walls with 2 screws. This could be an ideal device to use for the garage door opener. Output 100 -240V AC 10A per gang (15A total)Īs you can see the despite being small, it packs a punch, as long as you stay clear of high inductive loads as wiring schematics include instructions to connect a motor.The smart switch comes with the following specification: Terminals are made of metal and look sturdy, to accommodate the lighting wires. It’s worth noting that Sonoff DualR3 required Live and Neutral access to work, so you will have to settle on ceiling fixture or amount behind the wall switch based on your location and wiring standard. You’ll have to splice the cable to make it work. It can operate 2 switches and 2 gangs, but the number of terminals smaller than the number of cables required to pull it off. Upon closer inspection, Sonoff DualR3 has fewer terminals than I would like. It’s WiFi-based and as usual with Sonoff devices, you can link it up with eWeLink devices and take the advantage of smart assistant integration: Google Home and Alexa. It’s only slightly bigger than it’s older brother Sonoff Mini ( review), which should fit comfortably behind the wall switch. As the name suggests, two is the magic number! Let’s see what else can we do with it. A switch that is small enough to sit behind the wall switch and powerful enough to tackle multiple gangs individually. ![]() This time, Sonoff people decided to marry Sonoff Mini ( review) with Sonoff Dual and then use it to make babies with Sonoff POWR2 ( review)- to create Sonoff DUALR3. ![]() All of this is true no matter what sort of "smarts" (such as wireless capabilities, programming support, or what-have-you) the device has inside it, or whether it has any use for a hub or not.Another month, another product from ITEAD. It also is problematic if you want to use the smart-switch to provide a control input to another control device, such as a relay, lighting contactor, or dimming power module, that has more "grunt" than the smart-switch, or provides a capability (such as multi-way switching) that the smart-switch doesn't have on its own.įinally, there are a few wallbox devices that are battery-powered (some Intermatic wallbox timers are this way) this avoids the difficulties listed above, but obviously requires the occasional battery change in order to keep the device up and running. Others avoid this by returning their supply current via the controlled load (light, fan, or what-have-you) instead while fan motors and incandescent lightbulbs don't mind having a wee bit of power trickled through them while supposedly "off", this causes LED lightbulbs to play up (either flickering periodically, or simply glowing dimly) as they are much more efficient (read: sensitive) than their incandescent counterparts. Some smart-switches are naughty (but UL approved to be a bit naughty due to the low currents involved) and return their supply current through the equipment grounding wire this means they don't work in old houses without grounding, and also can cause problems downstream of GFCIs. However, old-school knob dimmers and plain toggle switches don't need such, and were often wired in a way that doesn't make neutral available at the switch box (the old way of wiring a "switch loop"), meaning that you can't put fancy things there unless they cheat. As you have noticed, "smart switches" have electronics inside that need power to run, and they have to provide that power somehow the same is also true for occupancy sensors, timers, and some, more sophisticated, types of dimmers as well. Whether a device needs a neutral wire or not has nothing to do with any sort of IoT contrivance such as a "smart home hub" and everything to do with how the device powers itself. I'm sorry to say, but you probably should find a better source to read, as whoever's been feeding you information is spouting total nonsense. Whoever you're listening to on this is spouting technobabble
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